"We suspect it's chemical, but...": why sugary fast food is booming in France

Sweet fast-food chains saw their revenue increase by 13% in 2024, according to the magazine France Snacking. Among the rapidly expanding brands are Dunkin ' and Dreams Donuts—names and products straight from the United States.

There's one brand in particular that's been a huge success since it arrived in France two years ago: Krispy Kreme . For now, the brand is only present in the Île-de-France region with 22 stores.

The first store opened in December 2023, in the Les Halles district of Paris. A bright, colorful shop, with the brand's only production line at its center. And the doughnuts being deep-fried in full view of everyone behind a large window.

“This year, we have a turnover of more than 15 million euros and more than one million donuts are made here every month and sold in Paris and the inner suburbs,” explains Nicolas Riché, who is in charge of developing Krispy Kreme in France.

Seated at the tables are mostly young people, but also families. Some are first-timers, while others are more regulars. "I come once a day. I get a coffee and a sweet treat; it's convenient," says one customer. "It's comforting, and I think it's great in the morning," adds a woman. "It's colorful, it's tempting, even if you suspect it's full of artificial ingredients and sugar. But once in a while, you can treat yourself," adds another customer.

A sweet aspect that customers definitely notice. And we went to verify this by visiting the office of nutritionist Faïza Bossy.

“If you take a donut with an original glaze, you will find that for about 50 grams you have a sugar content between 22 and 25 grams. However, the WHO recommendation is to have a sugar intake for an adult of 60-65 kilos of less than 50 grams per day or even 25 grams,” she points out.

Just one donut can easily reach your daily sugar intake. It's really important to only eat them occasionally, otherwise it can become dangerous. They're very high in fat and contain ultra-processed ingredients that can contribute to cardiovascular disease, heart attacks, and diabetes.

If it's so unhealthy, why is it so successful? Primarily because there's a strategy targeting young people. This is precisely what's worrying, because obesity is increasing particularly among 18-34 year olds, according to Inserm (the French National Institute of Health and Medical Research). As we've said, it's attractive, colorful, and visually appealing. Brands know and perfectly utilize the codes of social media. They invite influencers, offer a cookie to the first 1,000 customers...

As a result, dozens of shops are opening at a dizzying pace. Premises are easy to find since there's no need for large facilities, such as an extractor fan for deep-frying savory fast food.

The French market also has its own particularities, because we love American pop culture, like the Simpsons donuts for example. And above all, we love sugar in general, as Bernard Boutboul, a restaurant expert at Gira Conseil, explains.

“Sweet food has been on the rise for years because the French love sweets. The French are three times more likely to have a main course and dessert than the world average, which is more likely to have a starter and main course,” he explains.

Experts expect more store openings in the coming months. However, they all anticipate market saturation soon, with too many retailers. Supply is increasing, while demand is not expected to grow as rapidly.